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Name: Judy
Subject: Water Heater - Moving it
Question: Our house was built in early 70s, ranch style on a slab. We bought it two years ago.
It appears that the water heater was initially in the attic over the master bath, and at some time leaked so badly that they moved it to the store room off the carport.
Unfortunately, this is on the other side of the house, so pvc pipe runs through the attic from above the master bath to the storeroom, then back to the master bath, with potential leak issues galore.
Also, the water heater is in an awkard place as far as use of floor space.
We are thinking about moving the water heater back into the house, by actually losing some of the square footage in the bathroom, which is about 10 x 15 feet, so there is plenty of room, and it needs updating anyway. (still had original green and gold carpet...)
Are there any issues we need to be careful of? We will need to have a plumber come in of course in order to move the copper pipes, but I am worried about draining the water heater, what if it leaks, etc. We live in an area which has heavy mineral content and we have to drain the water heater often.
Answer: Hello
A couple of things to consider, age of heater, if old enough, discard and install new one saves a lot of problems disturbing of sediment in heater.I would ask plumber to see about putting a small sump basket with floor drain if possible where you could drain in future, providing you have room.
Hope this helps.
Name: terry
Subject: rapid cycle pressure switch
Question: Howdy- I live in florida, have a well system with a bladder tank. I had a problem with the pump not cycling on.. i checked the pressure in the bladder and it was fine... i sounded the tank with a wrench and it appears that it changes sound about halfway where it should... i changed out the pressure switch for new and found some sand in the small rubber line from the tank to the pump housing... all is now clean... my issue is that when my pump cycles on now that switch does not engage properly... instead of the switch clicking on and the contacts remaining closed until pressure is reached... the contacts almost do a rapid fire open and closing continuously until the pressure is made... i have checked the grounds and other connections and all appears to be ok....what do you think
Answer: HI
When you say you checked pressure in tank and it was fine, what do you consider fine?
Here is the way pressure should be, Turn pump off, turn on faucet till all water is drained from tank. Now is when you check pressure. With no water in tank pressure should be at what is the low setting on switch, If you want pump to turn on at say 20 lbs that should be the pressure in tank, You can now charge tank to desired pressure, or let some out of tank I use a tire gauge.
Now turn off faucet, turn pump on, should shut off should be at 40 lbs all pressure switches come preset to this 20/40. Now assuming you have not changed adjustments on pressure switch, you have 2 nuts under cover with directions, 1 is 3/8 and other is 7/16. You now can turn one down for high limit without affecting the turn on or vice versa.
Otherwise you get a switch that is being told to shut off because of too much pressure in tank. which is what it sounds like you are explaining. Let me know if you need some help, will gladly try to answer.
Name: Chad Tower
Subject: Compression faucet problem
Question: The cold compression faucet in my bathroom sink has stripped. You can turn it 360 degrees, past off, back into high volume. I do understand the compression faucet a little, read some good tutorials, and would be fairly confident I could replace the parts. There are two complications today: One, it is Memorial Day weekend and a plumber would cost 3x normal rates. Two, the stop valve under the sink seems to do nothing. The stop valve on the hot faucet works fine and shuts the water off completely. The stop valve on the cold, when turned all the way in the same direction, only slows the flow a little bit. I sprayed the handle stem down with WD40 several times and worked it in but it didn't help much. Right now the only way to stop the flow in that broken faucet is to shut off the whole house. My fear is that if I take the faucet apart and can't quite get it right, we'll have to keep the water off to the whole house without even being able to take showers and such this weekend.
We are willing to tough it out, keep water use minimal, and only turn the water main on when we need to bathe or cook. That will mean water flow in the bathroom sink at that time but it is better than the cost involved in a long weekend plumber visit.
What could be making that stop valve not work? A lime deposit, perhaps? There does seem to be white chalky stuff on the outside a bit which I assume is lime.
Answer: Hello
Try to keep working valve back and forth, it more than likely is lime build up but there is no way of knowing for sure. Keep in mind you have the problem fixed basically till Tuesday, you could make it worse and have no water. I would just do as you are and have a good weekend and draw water as needed. Toilets can be flushed with a 5 gallon pale, It sounds to me like you have the right idea, for saving cost of plumber. You are just being a little inconvienced right now.
Go enjoy your weekend. If you need assistance I will be around I usually go enjoy myself when the rush is over.
First big holiday of summer, I always tell people when leaving your house for an extended period shut water off to house.
Ask if need more assistance. Direct e-mail is dispatcherbob@espmetro.com
let me know
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