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Name: Tom Moran

Subject: Hot water recirc half works

Question: I understand originally there was recirc to the wash but none to the rest, then they added the rest via a pipe on the roof that starts above the hot water heater room, goes to the far corner and splits in two to go down into the house (one above laundry, other above bath). If recirc is off, and I wait for hot at the shower, then try the wash, the wash gets hot very fast. So I think the two circuits are connected together. Would out-of-balance make a *big* difference?
-------------------------

Followup To

Question -
My hot water recirc provides fast-hot to the washing machine, but makes very little difference to anything else. But if I wait for hot at the washing machine, then other things get hot fast - regardless of whether the recirc is on or off. Running any hot heats both pipes going into the wall from atop the hot water heater, recirc only heats one. Could crud in the line act like a one-way valve on one of the hot out lines, or what?

Answer -
Hello,
Sounds like the water is taking the easiest direction, I am assuming the recirc connects back into the bottom of heater, 1 or 2 lines, now not knowing where it connects into at the farthest fixture, meaning is it tied into both lines or 1. You have 2 pipes above heater going into wall ARE both are on circ or just one. Lets assume they both connect into the circ line, do they have flow valves on?
Sometimes water just takes the easiest route so you have to balance the flow in pipes. I am thinking that only one ties into line that would be the farthest from heater, and other does not.
If you have 2 return lines to pump, are they balanced. Meaning can you direct the amount of flow from one reduce it so pump pulls from both. Let me know.
It really does sound like only one is tied into system. I hope this makes sense.




Answer: Hello again
It more than likely is out of balance, I take it there are no balancing valves. Water takes the easiest flow. Follow this scenerio.
ONE PIPE SYSTEM NO PUMP.
55 gallon drum, 2" pipe in bottom, coming from a holding tank, 2" pipe out top dumping into a holding tank, Now heat drum, water will automatically circulate, as water heats it rises to top of drum, cooler water flows down it circulates on its own.
Now add a second pipe, 1 1/2" in and 1 1/2" out, with a pump, now the pump takes over the direction the water flows, with out some way of directing or restricting the flow it will all go into 1 1/2", the 2" possibly will heat up with gravity when circulator is off.
Why? Because flow is restricted at the pump.
I tell customers the cheapest circ system if you want one is pipe from bottom of heater to furthest point of usage tie in 1/2 line and it will circulate.
I hope I have explained, if not ask more, But based on what you are telling me and sight unseen it seems maybe can be corrected. Keep in mind circulating lines do not have to be very big, either does the pump, On most single family dwellings.
Let me know

Name: Bill

Subject: humming noise from kitchen sink

Question: Whenever the wind blows outside, my kitchen sink emits a low humming noise.... like something is vibrating. I've crawled under the house in search of any loose connections, etc... but didn't find anything. Any thoughts?

Answer: Hello
Sounds like the wind just blowing across vent on roof, much like blowing across a pop bottle. If you have a 2" vent coming out of roof above kitchen, they recommend about 1 foot above roof if it for some reason longer, try cutting off. If that does not solve problem try a return bend on that is a fitting shaped like a u that could help. Maybe the pipe is not verticle and is slanted towards wind which directs down pipe. Should be plumb or verticle.
Let me know.

Name: Jillian & Ryan

Subject: plumbing LOUD hum

Question: We're renting a very old house, and for the past few days, every time hot or cold water is run for any period of time, about 30 seconds AFTER the water's been turned off, somewhere in the house we hear this very loud, low-pitched hum, which gets loud, then fades off. The same, every time.
If this is an easy fix, we'd like to do it ourselves, and save our landlord a trip out.

Answer: Hello
I would start with one of toilets, if more than one, a majority of the time it comes from a defective ballcock/fillvalve in the tank, they have an atmospheric vacuum breaker and that is what usually causes this problem, Even tho you are not using the toilet at that time start with that. More than likely toilet tank needs a rebuild, New ballcock and flapper. If you have more than 1 toilet isolate them by shutting water off to that toilet if it has a shut off under tank on left side, if no shut off, take tank cover off and hold up on float so no water comes into tank, run water in house to see if humming occurs. Usually can locate pretty quick, most customers do not think of the toilet being problem. start there.
Let me know.


Name: Sam

Subject: Secondary Water Pressure Boost

Question: I am sharing a water well with 3 other homes. I am the farthest away from the pump (some 2500+ feet away, with a 1" supply line). During 'off-hours', we have adequate water pressure, even on our 2nd story bathrooms, but when all the neighbors are home, and placing demands on the water system, we find ourselves with only the leftover water pressure, which sometimes is miserably low.
I want to improve and stabilize the pressure. It appears that an in-line booster pump would simply suck down their pressure and probably cause problems for everybody. Can I "isolate" myself by installing a check valve and then putting in a large diaphragm tank to keep my own system pressurized? I realize that if I empty the tank and continue placing demand on the system that I am back to the main system pressure, but am hoping that if it is a large tank, I will seldom get to that point. Is this reasonable? Do I have to install it at point of entry to the house (extremely difficult in my situation) or can be 'anywhere' in the house. Right next to my water heater would be most convenient.

Answer: Hello
Yes you could install basically a shallow well system and it would do what you are asking, make sure you install a big enough tank as to not suck down pressure everytime needed. Although I doubt you would, I am sure at some point everyone on this does with minimal pressure anyway, I agree nothing worse than low pressure.
I would install it in the system where it would supply all of your cold. Install next to heater run pipe into cold, but put a check in line at first point to your house if possible and draw from there, by heater would be fine if no cold water take offs before heater. Sounds like room is factor just run pipes to where comes into house for a supply then route back if necesary, just making a big loop in supply with a pump.
Hope this helps.

Name: Brenda and Sam

Subject: sewer smell

Question: We have a sewer smell coming from the basement. It happens only in the hot weather. In the hot weather we would have the following running, a/c, outside water spigots watering gardens etc., washing machine and toilets flushing etc.
What could this be? It started at the end of last summer, then stopped when summer was over. It is back again, we ran the first floor a/c for the first time yesterday. Today it smells in the basement.

Answer: Hello
Sometimes in the summer a P-traps water evaporates as well in the winter, but sometimes not as fast. Floor drains are the biggest problem, make sure the cleanout plug is still in the drain, also make sure all traps are filled with water, do you have a bar sink not being used as much, also some traps can be syphoned and leave trap open, P-traps are there to stop sewer gas from escaping into house. We have found that a partially blocked mainline with root intrusion can also cause syphonage and sewer gas smell, sometimes a good drain cleaning is all it takes, Check all of p-traps first. Do you have a shower in basement that could have been install over a floor drain and that could be the problem, I have a strong feeling that something is syphoning a trap, check again to make sure clean out plug is in floor drain, it is usually under grate and above water, 1 1/2" plug if you see any openings besides the one with water in it, usually 2" directly on bottom, some are equipped with a back water valve. That is the problem needs to be plugged. Sometimes when drains get plugged homeowners or drain cleaners take plug out and do not replace.
Hope this helps nothing worse than sewer gas.

 



 

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