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Name: sean ahmadi
Subject: garbage disposal and bath tub
Question: every 2 or 3 months whenever I use the garbage disposal, the food and debries from the garbage disposal starts coming into the bath tub in the masterbedroom in the same floor. It seems to be a connection in which no one can figure out.
I have placed strainer in the bath tub as well as the kitchen sink to prevent food or hair goes in, but still I have the same problem. Please help me figure out what could possibly be the problem. Thank you Sean
Answer: HI
The 2 drain into same pipe, the tub being down line of disposal, Not being able to see the system I can only guess that where the tub ties into main line it developes a blockage grease, hair and soap. If you are hiring a drain cleaner or doing yourself, maybe you should have a plumber come out and make sure you have the proper size pipes, They might have been hooked together with too small of pipe, Not knowing how many fixtures are on the pipe, fixtures are counted by fixture units. Example Lav = 1 Tub = 2 total 3. Might just need to be upsized at connection. I have seen a lot of additions or remodels where they have installed wrong size piping.
The biggest problem with disposals it takes a lot more water than people care to use to convey waste.
If it is a grease problem, try using a little more ivory joy liquid dish soap, that helps to keep grease down in drains. We sell a product called bio-clean we recommend. Visit our web site and go to INSINKERATOR and they have some good tips on what you can and can't do with disposals.
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Name: Sam
Subject: Secondary Water Pressure Boost
Question: BOB:
Thank you for your response. Since I would be using the 'community pump' to pressurize my diaphragm tank, there is no need for me to install a second pump on my residence, correct? I just install a check valve at first point of entry, then insert the tank into the cold water line at a convenient spot? Just a simple entry and exit into the same water line? And that then would pressurize my house with whatever draw-down gallons the tank affords, correct? Only other question is, if my pressure is already low, will the check valve reduce it even further, thus hampering the ability of the community water to pressurize my tank? Summary: do you recommend a supplemental small pump or can I get away without it? thanks again!
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Followup To
Question -
I am sharing a water well with 3 other homes. I am the farthest away from the pump (some 2500+ feet away, with a 1" supply line). During 'off-hours', we have adequate water pressure, even on our 2nd story bathrooms, but when all the neighbors are home, and placing demands on the water system, we find ourselves with only the leftover water pressure, which sometimes is miserably low.
I want to improve and stabilize the pressure. It appears that an in-line booster pump would simply suck down their pressure and probably cause problems for everybody. Can I "isolate" myself by installing a check valve and then putting in a large diaphragm tank to keep my own system pressurized? I realize that if I empty the tank and continue placing demand on the system that I am back to the main system pressure, but am hoping that if it is a large tank, I will seldom get to that point. Is this reasonable? Do I have to install it at point of entry to the house (extremely difficult in my situation) or can be 'anywhere' in the house. Right next to my water heater would be most convenient.
Answer: Hello,
I would install a second pump just like a well, this would insure full pressure all of the time, It could happen that with the amount of distance you have a pressure drop anyway, a pump would only insure you to have full pressure or even more pressure than you have now, a shallow well pump comes with an adjustable jet as to not over pump the system other wise I see no significant advantage to just a tank, at some point you would still end up at the mercy of supply and demand and since everyone else is closer you are at their mercy. And a check valve as you already are aware of.
If you went to a building official and asked him what should the size of pipe be for my house at say 2500 feet I would be willing to bet you a steak dinner he would say probably 1 1/2" I am not near a code book but I can tell you with that distance you have a significant pressure drop. Plumbing is usually piped according to fixtures. Here is an example.
1 toilet = 6 fixture units.
1 lav = 1 fixture unit
1 bathtub = 2 fixture units
1 floor drains =2 fixture units
Appurtnances = o being water heaters.
You add all of fixture units together and that tells you size pipe needed. I might add I am in MN and am going by building code here.
Most houses require a 3/4 " service into but we install 1". on a normal 100' run. Now take into consideration all 3 houses need to be sized into equation. If all houses required a 3/4" pipe, so many GPM per house. the minimal size all 3 should be fed with would be 2 1/4" that is derived from adding 3 x 3/4" not an exact science, but probably close.
What size is pipe supply from well tank that you are all supplied from, 1" is my guess. Someone cut corners. Sorry if that is the case. If this is case I would definately be asking someone else to pay bill, Is the well big enough or pump GPM big enough to supply fixture usage.
I understand your concern for neighbors, what about your own well?
You could install a tank as you wish. Any where in house as long as you loop back before your first fixture take off. Also a check, Again a pump throttled down should not affect the others as they are considerably closer, in theory you are right it should be limited the amount of times you get that low on pressure. Remember all plumbing is sized on peak demand, what if another house was added?
I would be curious as to size of pump supplying you as well as pipe sizes. you can e-mail me at dispatcherbob@espmetro.com
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Name: Sheri
Subject: Screeching noise from shower plumbing
Question: Hi-
I am having problems with our shower plumbing. It was working fine about a week ago. Then my husband and I went away for the weekend and when we came back a loud screeching sound started occuring every time we turn on the shower. When I turn the water flow down the screeching stops, but it's a pain to take a shower with nearly no water.
We have a one knob shower that you lift up to turn on and left/right to make hot/cold. There's one faucet with a knob at the top, which we pull up to switch it to the shower head. The shower head is connected via a hose to the pipe coming out of the wall. The knob and shower head both say Delta on them.
If you can help us fix this problem we will be forever grateful.
Answer: Hello
There is maybe a simple fix try taking shower head off and see if screeching stops, most shower heads come with a water saver in the head, might just need to replace head, or remove water saver, reduces pressure drastically, it sounds like maybe it has some debris/lime build up. Most of them are just a rubber washer.
Try that, if does not work we will go from there. Let me know.
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Name: Ed rowe
Subject: water pressure
Question: which way do you turn the pressure adjustment screw at the water valve to increase pressure
Answer: Hello
Most pressure reducing valves are regulated with a screw that opens and closes a diaphram, Loosen the back up nut holding it, and left should loosen, keep in mind sometimes after an extended period of usage they will not adjust, and require a new valve. Hope this helps.
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